Let me share an all-too-familiar scenario that continues to happen to me time and time again. I land upon a new skin care trend that’s taking over social media and the internet, do my research to make sure it’s not insane or dangerous, and then I try it. Well, just when I become slightly obsessed with the said trend, it’s already come and gone and there’s a new one popping up on the horizon. And let’s not talk about how my previously two-step skin care routine has tripled or, um, quadrupled, thanks to international beauty trends like K-beauty’s glass skin or double-cleansing. Yeah, internet pressure is a real thing.
The latest trend that the internet has peer-pressured me to dive into is gommage. Of course, it sounds alluring, just like any French word would. But apparently, it’s a kind-of-new skin care trend that people can’t stop talking about. Because, after all, if the French are obsessed, we should be too. So, I decided to tap two skin care experts to get the scoop on gommage and whether it’s actually worth the hype. Keep reading to find out exactly what gommage is, who benefits most from it, and how to try the technique at home.
What is gommage?
Gommage isn’t exactly a new invention, although it’s new to me. It’s essentially the French’s beloved way to exfoliate. “Gommage is a French technique of gentle exfoliation,” says Edyta Jarosz, a licensed esthetician at Shafer Clinic. “It uses a combination of ingredients that exfoliate your skin chemically through the combination of enzymes and scrubbing to slough away dead skin and other debris from the surface of the skin.” Jarosz says this method dates all the way back to the 1700s when Marie Antoinette created her very own mask made of eggs, cognac, powdered milk, and lemon juice.
Board-certified dermatologist Tiffany Libby, M.D., says gommage actually translated to “erasing” or “exfoliation” and has become the French go-to thanks to its gentleness on the skin. No aggressive acids are needed here. The magic is all in the enzymes that both chemically and physically exfoliate the skin.
Who is gommage suited for?
Even though all of us need to do some sort of exfoliation to keep our skin fresh, dewy, and healthy, those of us with sensitive skin tend to shy away from exfoliating to avoid irritation. But the good news is the gommage technique gives us all the benefits of traditional exfoliation—unclogged pores, removal of dead skin cells, improved circulation, increased cell turnover, and even acne prevention—without causing redness or inflammation. That’s why this beloved spa technique has won over so many hearts. “It’s the essential type of exfoliation for anyone who struggles with sensitivity,” Jarosz says. Including those with sensitive, dry, or acne-prone skin.
“Because gommage exfoliants don’t penetrate deeper into the skin like traditional AHAs and BHAs do, they are more tolerable,” Libby says. But she does warn that it won’t give you the longer and more dramatic results that the acids can achieve like improving hyperpigmentation and stimulating collagen production. But the point is, if you’re looking for a gentler alternative to exfoliation, choosing gommage is much wiser than avoiding the process altogether.
What do I look for in a gommage exfoliator?
Instead of using physical granules like a manual exfoliator or an acid like a chemical one, gommage products use, “enzyme-rich formulations derived mostly from plant and fruit sources that are proteolytic, meaning they break down dead skin cells so they can easily be washed away,” Libby says. She continues that some commonly used enzymes to look for are papain, bromelain, trypsin, and pancreatin.
As far as fruit enzymes, Jarosz says to look for common plants used like pineapples, papayas, and pumpkins. But do note that if you have an allergy to any fruits or plants, you may want to check the ingredient list before applying it to your skin.
Libby also notes that most gommage products contain acrylate polymers. These polymers like cellulose or carbomer are what create the signature flakes that show up when the product has dried and been massaged away. These products usually come with a gel- or paste-like consistency and can be easily applied to the skin.
Frequently Asked Questions
Gommage is a French exfoliation technique that combines chemical and physical exfoliation using enzymes and gentle scrubbing to remove dead skin cells and debris from the skin's surface. It is known for its gentle approach, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.
Unlike traditional exfoliants that use physical granules or strong acids like AHAs and BHAs, gommage relies on enzyme-rich formulations derived from plants and fruits to gently break down dead skin cells. This makes it less irritating and more tolerable, especially for sensitive skin.
Gommage is ideal for individuals with sensitive, dry, or acne-prone skin who want to exfoliate without causing redness or inflammation. It provides benefits like unclogging pores, improving circulation, and increasing cell turnover without the irritation associated with stronger exfoliants.
Look for enzyme-rich ingredients such as papain, bromelain, trypsin, and pancreatin, which are derived from fruits like pineapples, papayas, and pumpkins. Additionally, acrylate polymers like cellulose or carbomer are common to create the signature flakes when the product is massaged off.
If you have allergies to certain fruits or plants, it's important to check the ingredient list of gommage products carefully before use, as many contain fruit-derived enzymes that could trigger allergic reactions.
Gommage exfoliants do not penetrate as deeply as traditional acids like AHAs and BHAs, so they are less effective at improving hyperpigmentation or stimulating collagen production. They are better suited for gentle surface exfoliation rather than dramatic skin changes.
Gommage products usually have a gel- or paste-like consistency that is easy to apply. When massaged onto the skin and allowed to dry, they form flakes that can be gently rubbed off, removing dead skin cells in the process.
Gommage provides gentle exfoliation that unclogs pores, removes dead skin cells, improves circulation, increases cell turnover, and can help prevent acne without causing irritation or inflammation, making it a great option for sensitive skin.
While gommage has recently gained popularity on social media and the internet, it is not a new technique. It dates back to the 1700s and has long been a beloved French method of gentle exfoliation.
Gommage has gained popularity due to its gentle yet effective exfoliation, making it suitable for sensitive skin types. Its French origin and the allure of natural enzyme-based exfoliation have also contributed to its rise in popularity on social media.